June 13 Ascending LZ East-Hill 488 (Neil)
It was much tougher than the two previous post-war ascents in 2011 & 2016. Landing Zone (LZ) East, also known as Hill 488, has become a snarling tangle of flesh-slicing thorned brush, elephant grass, and gum trees. When the gold mine was operating, the first half of the route was a decent trail. But, the closure of that mine last year allowed the takeover of vegetation to an unbelievable extent. The absence of grazing cattle, coupled with newly-established gum trees, has also made the second half very challenging. The 2011 gradual, steady ascent is now a slow, laborious process of pushing through brush, route finding, and scrambling.
3/21 Infantry Battalion of the 196th Light Infantry assumed operational control of the area of operations (AO) of the region encompassing LZ East, in 1967. Previously, the Marines had worked that AO. LZ Center, the battalion's primary Fire Support Base (FSB), and LZ West are quite visible from Hill 488 (East). During my duty with 3/21 Infantry, LZ East and LZ West weren't active, but were occasionally occupied for a few days here and there by our infantry troops. At times 4/5-man short-term (about 5 days) observation posts (OP) set up on these hills to observe enemy troop movements. It was on one such OP that my 5-man post took fire from the enemy, forcing us from LZ East's summit. Hunkering down in tall elephant grass, we could see NVA helmets bobbing around nearby as they searched for us. We managed to evade their search & probes and made it through a somewhat uneasy night before latching onto Charlie Company the following day. Then we choppered back to Alpha Company. I would volunteer for these remote OP's to get a break from humping a pack for a few days. But, four or five men on a mountaintop were very vulnerable....
It was, I believe, June '68 post-Nhi Ha that my company climbed and set up perimeter on LZ East. It was during this brief stay that Lt. Candler choppered in as my platoon's new leader. Lt. Smith, the previous platoon leader, had been wounded at Nhi Ha May 6 and evacuated. Our platoon, normally at about 42 men, was down to 18 due to heavy losses. The book "Landing Zones-Southern Veterans Remember Vietnam" by James R. Wilson describes Lt. Candler's arrival in our midst. An excerpt:
"The Huey that flew me out to Alpha Company drew fire from a sniper as we came in. The copilot took a round in one of his legs. With what had happened to him on my mind, I hit the ground convinced that I wouldn't live through the day. All the other guys were standing around writing letters and opening their C-rations. It was another day in the war for them, nothing to get very excited about. I took over a platoon of eighteen men; it would have been full-strength at forty-two. Some of my men, including the platoon sergeant, seemed dazed by their experiences along the DMZ."
The period following the mid-May return to our regular AO from the DMZ didn't allow us any relief. In a two-day period, my squad went from full strength at ten men to just one remaining man....that being me. So, Lt. Candler did, indeed, assume control of a chewed up, battle-weary platoon. It didn't take long for the "green", inexperienced lieutenant to evolve into an effective leader, respected and trusted by his men.
Ok, focus Hannan, focus...back to yesterday's climb of Hill 488. The ascent of LZ East began on arrival at the base around 9:30 AM. There Thong enticed a young local guy to serve as guide. At the time, I didn't feel that we really needed a guide. As it turned out, he was a valuable asset.
With water and small daypacks, Thong, Katie, Kira, the guide, and I started up. The first section is extremely steep and sets the tone right off the bat. The vegetative difference in just two years was astounding. The second half of the ascent was a route new to me...rocky, overgrown, steep edges, and difficult. The guide, amazingly, hiked barefoot with no water. Somehow he could detect animal traps along narrow paths, demonstrating a safe way past. One trap he intentionally tripped.
It was a concern when, midway up the mountain, Thong announced that the guide was not familiar with the above terrain and would not lead the group. It also appeared that Thong would proceed no further. Well, Katie, Kira, and I instantly decided to continue by just picking and choosing any route that headed upwards. Such a helter-skelter route adds to the danger element..traps, overgrown deep holes, and unexploded ordinance. Seeing that we were determined to continue, the guide decided to follow us several minutes after our departure from the group. It took some time and much clawing and climbing, but we finally broke through into an open area of high elephant grass. Walking gingerly to avoid holes concealed by vegetation, scratched & bloodied, we finally achieved summit.
From the top to Hill 488, much of our old AO is observable. Gazing over the landscape below, I reflect on the hardship, anguish, suffering, and death that were experienced fifty years prior. I can't even consider opening that can of worms.
With old AO maps and compass, we discussed the features surrounding us. LZ Center, 3/21 Infantry's fire support base, and LZ West beyond, were clearly visible. We spent maybe one hour at the summit, as I pointed out features and reflected on experiences during my 19th year.
The descent was as adventurous as the ascent, with a great deal of steep rock scrambling. This time the guide led the way, encountering still another trap. We came across Thong en route, sitting on a trail nursing an eye injury. Although he insisted that it was "no problem", it appeared serious to me. It seems that a limb rammed into his eye, breaking his glasses in the process. Immediately upon arriving back at the car, we departed for Hoi An, where Katie, Kira, and I were dropped at our hotel. Thong was then taken to an emergency room in DaNang, where his injury was addressed. In four days the bandage will be removed for reassessment. Thong has informed me that he wants a purple heart and bronze star.
Here are few images from the descent.
Being able to explore the old AO with my daughter and granddaughter is a most unique and fulfilling experience. The three-generation climb was exceptional.
3/21 Infantry Battalion of the 196th Light Infantry assumed operational control of the area of operations (AO) of the region encompassing LZ East, in 1967. Previously, the Marines had worked that AO. LZ Center, the battalion's primary Fire Support Base (FSB), and LZ West are quite visible from Hill 488 (East). During my duty with 3/21 Infantry, LZ East and LZ West weren't active, but were occasionally occupied for a few days here and there by our infantry troops. At times 4/5-man short-term (about 5 days) observation posts (OP) set up on these hills to observe enemy troop movements. It was on one such OP that my 5-man post took fire from the enemy, forcing us from LZ East's summit. Hunkering down in tall elephant grass, we could see NVA helmets bobbing around nearby as they searched for us. We managed to evade their search & probes and made it through a somewhat uneasy night before latching onto Charlie Company the following day. Then we choppered back to Alpha Company. I would volunteer for these remote OP's to get a break from humping a pack for a few days. But, four or five men on a mountaintop were very vulnerable....
 |
| Hannan- LZ East OP |
 |
| Gary Krowl-Our Position Down from LZ East Summit Following NVA Attack |
 | ||
| LZ East OP-Directing Artillery |
 |
| Crashed Huey-LZ East |
It was, I believe, June '68 post-Nhi Ha that my company climbed and set up perimeter on LZ East. It was during this brief stay that Lt. Candler choppered in as my platoon's new leader. Lt. Smith, the previous platoon leader, had been wounded at Nhi Ha May 6 and evacuated. Our platoon, normally at about 42 men, was down to 18 due to heavy losses. The book "Landing Zones-Southern Veterans Remember Vietnam" by James R. Wilson describes Lt. Candler's arrival in our midst. An excerpt:
"The Huey that flew me out to Alpha Company drew fire from a sniper as we came in. The copilot took a round in one of his legs. With what had happened to him on my mind, I hit the ground convinced that I wouldn't live through the day. All the other guys were standing around writing letters and opening their C-rations. It was another day in the war for them, nothing to get very excited about. I took over a platoon of eighteen men; it would have been full-strength at forty-two. Some of my men, including the platoon sergeant, seemed dazed by their experiences along the DMZ."
The period following the mid-May return to our regular AO from the DMZ didn't allow us any relief. In a two-day period, my squad went from full strength at ten men to just one remaining man....that being me. So, Lt. Candler did, indeed, assume control of a chewed up, battle-weary platoon. It didn't take long for the "green", inexperienced lieutenant to evolve into an effective leader, respected and trusted by his men.
Ok, focus Hannan, focus...back to yesterday's climb of Hill 488. The ascent of LZ East began on arrival at the base around 9:30 AM. There Thong enticed a young local guy to serve as guide. At the time, I didn't feel that we really needed a guide. As it turned out, he was a valuable asset.
With water and small daypacks, Thong, Katie, Kira, the guide, and I started up. The first section is extremely steep and sets the tone right off the bat. The vegetative difference in just two years was astounding. The second half of the ascent was a route new to me...rocky, overgrown, steep edges, and difficult. The guide, amazingly, hiked barefoot with no water. Somehow he could detect animal traps along narrow paths, demonstrating a safe way past. One trap he intentionally tripped.
 | ||
| Guide & Tripped Trap |
 |
| Guide, Katie & Kira |
It was a concern when, midway up the mountain, Thong announced that the guide was not familiar with the above terrain and would not lead the group. It also appeared that Thong would proceed no further. Well, Katie, Kira, and I instantly decided to continue by just picking and choosing any route that headed upwards. Such a helter-skelter route adds to the danger element..traps, overgrown deep holes, and unexploded ordinance. Seeing that we were determined to continue, the guide decided to follow us several minutes after our departure from the group. It took some time and much clawing and climbing, but we finally broke through into an open area of high elephant grass. Walking gingerly to avoid holes concealed by vegetation, scratched & bloodied, we finally achieved summit.
 |
| Kira & Neil - LZ East Summit |
 |
| Kira, Katie & Neil - LZ East Summit |
 | ||
| Neil & Kira - LZ Center & LZ West in Background |
With old AO maps and compass, we discussed the features surrounding us. LZ Center, 3/21 Infantry's fire support base, and LZ West beyond, were clearly visible. We spent maybe one hour at the summit, as I pointed out features and reflected on experiences during my 19th year.
 |
| Guide, Katie & Kira |
 |
| LZ Center & LZ West in Distance |
 |
| Kira - LZ Center and LZ West Beyond |
 |
 | ||
| LZ Center (Foreground) & LZ West just beyond |
 |
| LZ Center 1968 |
 |
| LZ Center 1968 |
 |
| Neil - LZ Center |
The descent was as adventurous as the ascent, with a great deal of steep rock scrambling. This time the guide led the way, encountering still another trap. We came across Thong en route, sitting on a trail nursing an eye injury. Although he insisted that it was "no problem", it appeared serious to me. It seems that a limb rammed into his eye, breaking his glasses in the process. Immediately upon arriving back at the car, we departed for Hoi An, where Katie, Kira, and I were dropped at our hotel. Thong was then taken to an emergency room in DaNang, where his injury was addressed. In four days the bandage will be removed for reassessment. Thong has informed me that he wants a purple heart and bronze star.
 |
| Thong aka "Damn Guide" |
Here are few images from the descent.
 |
| Coming down from LZ East - LZ Center & LZ West Visible |
Being able to explore the old AO with my daughter and granddaughter is a most unique and fulfilling experience. The three-generation climb was exceptional.
I'm happy that the climb went so well for you. I love the pictures.
ReplyDeleteI don't know what to say........I am in awe of how profound an endeavor like that would be. You made your mind up to do it ......and DID. Congratulations to Katie and Kira too! What fortitude!. It had to be concerning. To see the pictures of the same spot 50 years ago speaks volumes. An experience most people in this world could never know. I am sorry Thong did have an injury and pray it heals well.
ReplyDelete